Great conference and workshop with Stéphane Truchi (Ifop President), Béatrice Marriotti (Carré Noir Vice-President) and Régine Charvet-Pello (Certesens, President and co-founder).
Read the summary of the conference below and try to identify packaging ideas that are emblematic of GenZ generation. If you go to Certesens corner, you will discover 4 interesting textures that match GenZ: Light (of smartphone, computer etc.), shine, flexibility and skin.
The new generation (born from the mid-1990s to the early 2000s) represents a larger cohort than the millenials or baby-boomers (around 1/4 of the US population). It is the first generation truly digital native. IFOP study identifies 4 characteristics to this generation:
The importance of tradition: GenZ revives the fundamentals of Luxury, which are product and service excellence and ultimate creativity. They praise expensive brands that they would purchase as self-reward and as a signal of social success. It is the revival of prominent logos and money display, with no inhibition. It is a generation that is transgenerational (72% prefer working with people of all ages) and very anchored to local roots (eg. the revival of iconic brands Champion US, Lacoste, Fila, Fusalp, Kway). It is a generation that is into “authenticity revisited” with fun (Hermesmatic https://www.hermes.com/us/en/story/107636-hermesmatic/ ).
Showing off success: GenZ is a generation that does not feel ashamed showing off money. In non-Calvinist countries such as France, the oldest generations had less problems talking about sex than about money… (the perfect illustration: comments in French tabloïds on DSK driving a Porsche car). GenZ is very comfortable with both. GenZ wants to make money but also wants a balance with personal life. In contrast to other generations, they aspire making money on their own, being entrepreneurs (45% see themselves being entrepreneurs). They have plenty of examples of Young people success on YouTube, Instagram or heading start-ups with great ideas. They want to make money fast and display their success. In relation to luxury, they aspire owning brands that signal very strongly financial success (Rolex number 1 aspirational brand in France, Britain and China).
A new form of experiential Materialism: Materialism is reinvented, and becomes experiential that way. 83% want to live a unique experience. They want a blend of physical and digital. Phygital in the stores is key. In addition, although they are connected to virtual friends on social media, they want to do things physically with others. The motto is being able to share. 58% enjoy doing things they can share with others (Gucci Hub is a good illustration https://clubtoclub.it/en/venue/gucci-hub/). They also praise products that are parodies and collaborations based on fun (Supreme x LV).
Engagement with concrete, day-to-day actions and personal involvement. They would fight for gender and ethnicity equality. It is the generation who talks loud (Génération sans bâillon), #metoo. 68% try to stick to a more ecological lifestyle. 59% try to live in great harmony with nature.
Protecting Mental Health: GenZ is in a quest for better personal relief. The motto is feeling good with myself. 80% of GenZ women believe that real beauty is to be truly oneself. It is the first generation of women confortable with their bodies (59% feel good with their body). They really appreciate diversity on the catwalk, including showing handicap and skin diseases like vitiligo (beautiful Winnie Harlow). They are also aware that overexposure to social media is a danger to their mental health. Particularly in China where AI is a political engagement, 40% of GenZ are concerned about self-protection. Detox, Me me me, and hyper-personalisation are trends born on these grounds.
In Fall 1919, Gabrielle Chanel presented for first time a collection, destined to yatching, resorts and sunny destinations.
Gabrielle loved yatching with Duc of Westminster. In 1929, she accosted at Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and settled a house there: La Pausa. In 1983, Lagerfeld revived cruise collections, the incarnation of travelling, real or imaginary.
Edhec Master students had the unique opportunity to visit the 148-metre-long replica boat installed at the Grand Palais for the Chanel Cruise Collection 2018-2019, named La Pausa after Chanel’s villa on the French Riviera. The boat took a month to install inside the Grand Palais and it will be “recycled, upcycled or repurposed” along the words of Chanel managers. It was the stage for the revival of the Chanel of a Breton stripe-wearing Coco on holiday.
ACCOR is a Creator of memorable experiences for customers but also for our students. After Novotel Monaco on November 9th, EDHEC BBA were invited on December 1st to Le Scribe Hotel in Paris, an iconic 5 stars hotel managed by Sofitel. Le Scribe spirit is much influenced by its location at the art of Paris, next to Opera Garnier. The Haussmanian building was the home of the Jockey Club from 1861 to 1925. The hotel was named after the dramatic writer Eugène Scribe; its soul is much influenced by Parisian artists. The Art Deco interior signed by Jacques Grange will be renovated over the next two years by famous designer Tristan Auer (Hotel de Crillon, Hotel du Louvre). Le Scribe is managed by Sofitel; customers benefit from an exceptional service, the Cousu-Main experience.
Thank you Le Scribe Hotel staff for this Christmas gift.
October 18th, 2017. Amazing “professor experience” proposed by LVMH. Visit of Chaumet museum on Place Vendôme. A Discovery of the history of Chaumet house and its relation to French History.
Chaumet was founded by Marie-Étienne Nitot in 1780. In 1802, Nitot was appointed court jeweller to Emperor Napoleon I and his wife Joséphine de Beauharnais. Among the beautiful jewels and diadems created for the royalties, the most famous piece is probably the sword of Napoleon coronation, crowned with the huge 141-carat Regent Diamond.
A famous resident of the house was Chopin who wrote his last composition, the Mazurka in G Minor in the majestic Grand Salon with a view on Place Vendôme and died in the house on October 1849.
In the evening, I was invited to the Christian Dior exhibition at Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Blessed to be the LVMH Professor Ambassador at EDHEC.
On October 11, twenty students (EDHEC BBA 4th year specialized in Hospitality and Event Management) visited the iconic Palais de la Méditerranée on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice. This 5-star hotel opened on January 1929 as a “Palais des Plaisirs” targeting the wealthy foreigners that visited the French Riviera during the Golden Age. When the building, designed by the architects Charles and Marcel Dalmas in the 20’s, was renovated from 2001 to 2004, the front was protected as part of the “20th century heritage” label. The interior of the building was decorated with respect to the Art Deco style, but modernized to align on the most stringent standards of the hospitality sector. In 2013, Qatar investors Constellation Hotels Holdings purchased the Palais de la Méditerranée, together with Hotel Martinez in Cannes, Hotel du Louvre and Concorde Lafayette in Paris. The Hyatt group is in charge of the management of the Hotel, and as such Palais de la Méditerranée integrated the Hyatt Regency portfolio. Students visited the magnificent ballrooms, a suite with a view on the sea and the swimming pool and restaurant areas.
Next, Laurence Dozol (Senior Event Planning Manager) and Laurent Drouard (Director of Operations) gave a talk on the creation of a luxury experience, the importance of wowing the customer and paying attention to details. Students were immersed in Hyatt organizational culture, caring for customers and staff alike, through a series of videos, many of them created internally by Palais de La Mediterranée employees. Watch the video “The World of Hyatt” on YouTube that encapsulates the Hyatt Human-Centered approach to doing business. Thank you to the Hyatt team for sharing your passion with our students! Great employer branding!
EDHEC BBA students visited Luxe Pack Monaco today, the occasion to discover and comment packaging innovations in different sectors, like Fragrances and Cosmetics or Wine and Spirits (read the comments they make to this post). This year, two new spaces provide a source of inspiration.
First, a “Living Heritage Hub” is dedicated to the best craftsmen in France (Entreprises du Patrimoine Vivant) with Ephtée, Maison Fey, Crézé, Fonderie d’Art Macheret, Atelier Philippe Martial and Cristallerie Saint-Paul, all compagnies having in common excellence and traditional manufacturing.
Second, a multisensorial space proposes an immersive experience “Test your senses” in partnership with Mat&Sens. The space is organized around four major trends in luxury (source S.Truchi, IFOP) and their translation into emotions, sensations and packaging materials that we can touch:
Engagement with brands that truly commit, which leads to revisit The Nature through vegetal moss, mushrooms, sand, and wood composite
The reign of Singularity and self-expression with materials such as 3D textile or mix of acrylic and metal
Non-conformity and opposition to social codes and social expectations, translated through unusal materials such as cow stomach or ray skin
A New Vision of Time, a slow-time which allows consumers to enjoy the moment, through bamboo silk and translucent alabaster
Among the many conferences which were organized this year, the conference “Creative Packaging for a drinking experience beyond the ordinary” explained the process leading to the launch of DIAGEO’s Tanqueray Gin Cage, an amazing bottle much discussed by students (read comments below).
The Métropole Hotel Monte Carlo is an institution in Monaco. Born in 1886, its Belle Epoque building is located in Monaco Carré D’Or. The interior was redesigned by architect Jacques Garcia in 2004. The gastronomic restaurant is a Joël Robuchon 2 stars amazing creation. The exterior (swimming pool and exterior lounge) was designed by Karl Lagerfeld in 2012. Ulysse’s Travel is a vast fresco featuring Baptiste Giabiconi together with godesses in white togas. Our BBA 4th year students will have to make recommendations to this famous and iconic hotel. What a challenge! A thank you to Marie-Catherine Mars, Director BBA4 Horizon Luxe.
On July 3rd 2017, Edhec in collaboration with HEC Montréal organized for selected executives, a learning expedition to the city of Grasse, the world perfumery capital. The day was dedicated to understanding how Grasse managed to leverage its territory between mountain and sea, its three centuries of heritage and its unique savoir-faire to revive the ancestral perfume sector and attract the investments of the greatest luxury perfume Houses. The major actors in the renaissance of Grasse, including the mayor Jerome Viaud, discussed the future development of the region during an inspiring roundtable.
Grasse expertise in the growing of fragrance flowers (such as Centifolia Rose and Jasmine Grandiflorum), as well as in the transformation of the flowers into a ‘concrete’ (the initial solid extract) and then into an ‘absolute’ (the liquid concentrate featured in perfumes) is transmitted from generations to generations. “Our crops are to the perfume profession what handmade lace is to Haute-Couture” states the leaflet presenting Grasse exceptional know-how (Les fleurs d’exception du pays de Grasse). To protect its identity and origin, Grasse is engaged in obtaining the IGP label (Identification Geographique Protégée) and recognition of its living heritage by Unesco. Jerome Viaud is involved in preventing fields to be built, in order to expand the growth of fragrance flowers.
The renaissance of Grasse is supported by major luxury perfume houses. In September 2016, LVMH opened a fragrance creation center in Grasse, Les Fontaines Parfumées (the fragrant fountains), which will host master perfumers Jacques Cavallier Belletrud (the ‘nose’ of Louis Vuitton) and François Demachy (the nose of Dior). The perfume houses get closer to their local partners along the supply chain. In May, Christian Dior Parfums had reopened Christian Dior’s former mansion from 1951 to 1957, Château de La Colle Noire, in Montauroux (Grasse region). The perfume La Colle Noire, conceived by François Demachy, is a tribute to Christian Dior’s love for Grasse and its Centifolia Rose. Chanel contributes also to the sustainable growth of fragrance flowers. Its digital journey “From land to fragrance” emphasizes Grasse as the local source of its perfume ingredients. Since 1921, Chanel N°5 is made out of jasmine grown in Grasse.
Watch a short extract of the roundtable:
Also, the serie of short movies “The Quest for Essences” by Dior:
Great roundtable on June 29th on the Future of Luxury Retail in a digital world organized by Bettina Fröhlich (Luxe Partenaires) at Digital Luxury Meeting 2017: Avak Der Boghossian (Deloitte partner) introduced the market trends of digital experiential and personalization (Deloitte report Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2017,https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/global/Documents/consumer-industrial-products/gx-cip-global-powers-luxury-2017.pdf); Béatrice Querette (Merchanfeeling) provided insights from the field; Hortense Sauvard shared her perspective as a co-founder of OuiAreMakers.com.
Marie-Cécile Cervellon (EDHEC Business School) shared her research outlook on luxury etail and retail: The boundaries between retail and etail are blurred. The customer is the focal point of the omnichannel strategy. On one hand, online brands make their online presentations concrete, tangible and humanized through pictures of human models, zoom on details, 360 spin rotations, videos and the possibility to interact with human advisors. This strategy decreases the perceived risks associated to the online purchase. The chances to purchase online are multiplied by 1.5. The consumer is encouraged to pick up his purchase in the physical store (click&collect), creating traffic to the store and cross-selling opportunities. On the other hand, the digitalization (or phygitalization) of the point of sales is a major stake. From connected windows that allow purchases 24/7 to order and payment through mobile apps, the store becomes a replica of the e-boutique as much as the e-boutique becomes a replica of the physical store. Yet, in this digital world, let us NOT forget the BASICS… the reasons why clients go to the store: living an amazing in-store experience. Particularly the Millennials who will represent 40% of the personal luxury goods market by 2025, look for experiences that they can share. Unfortunately, 1/3 finds monotonous the experience in the store. Even more worrying, the service is bad, to extremely bad, in half of the visits. Our research shows that a young client activates a stereotype which makes him/her an unprofitable potential client and might lead to discriminatory treatments (Cervellon, Poujol and Tanner, 2017). Training to avoid stereotype-based behaviors is key.
What should the Luxury Store of the Future look like? Marie-Cécile said “A DESTINATION in the customer journey, a place for experimentation and a source of inspiration”.
If you are interested in Fashion, pay a visit to Musée Bourdelle in Paris before July 16th. In many respects, couture and sculpture have a common approach, a similar “canvas”. The exhibition presents a selection of dresses, hats and accessories, most of them in Black, displayed next to Bourdelle’s sculptures. About the choice of the theme Balenciaga in Black: “Balenciaga cultivated the infinite shades of Black as if they were metamorphoses. He used the interplay of shadows, sheens and transparency as matter for creation. In whatever form it took, this non-colour was his way of emphasizing the shape of his models. It brought density to the volumes and intensity of expression”. (Source: Petit Journal de l’Exposition)
Among the different sections:
Black and transparency: with all kinds of floating and shades of opaqueness. This section exposes the use of laces, which embodied the soul of Spanish folklore
Black and sheen: the duality of light and shade, brilliant black of elegance and matt black of mourning, refers also to Balenciaga’s cultural origin. His inspiration for embroidered beads and sequins come from his collections of late 19th century dresses.
Black drapes and volumes: like a sculptor, Balenciaga would adapt the cut and drape on the silhouette to the thickness, weight and feel of the fabric.
I was called as an expert on Luxury by British consultants Canvas8 to forecast the most influential trends in consumption over 2017. One of the trends which will shape the future of luxury will be the development of the Second Hand Market. In 2014, Bain&Co estimated the market to be worth EUR16bn, less than 10% of the global personal luxury goods market. Bain&Co calculate a potential 30 times higher with the development of online sales. The new platforms such as InstantLuxe and VestiaireCollective provide consumers security on the authenticity and usage quality of the products purchased, thanks to a team of experts, specialized per product category.
If you want to read about the motivations to purchase vintage luxury fashion versus second-hand luxury fashion:
Marie-Cécile Cervellon, Lindsey Carey, Trine Harms, (2012),”Something old, something used: Determinants of women’s purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion”, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 40 Iss: 12 pp. 956 – 974
The summary of the paper “Vintage has been a growing trend in clothing recently, leading to major fashion brands launching collections inspired by vintage pieces or luxury haute-couture houses digging into their archives to revive past designs. Yet, as this market develops, little is known about the profile of the consumer and the motivations to purchase vintage. This paper aims to explore the veracity of a number of assumptions relating to vintage consumption, equating it to the consumption of used, previously owned clothes by nostalgic prone, environmentally-friendly or value-conscious consumers. The results show that the main antecedents to vintage consumption are fashion involvement and nostalgia proneness as well as need for uniqueness through the mediation of treasure hunting. In contrast, second-hand consumption is directly driven by frugality. Eco-consciousness plays an indirect role through bargain hunting. In essence, the thrill of the hunt is present for vintage and for second hand consumption. Yet, while vintage consumers shop for a unique piece with history, second-hand consumers shop for a unique piece at a good price. Additionally, the main characteristics of vintage fashion consumers are a higher level of education and higher income whereas age is not directly related to the purchase of vintage pieces.”
On October 28th, EDHEC BBA 4th year (Tourism, Hospitality and Event Management) discovered luxury travel from the perspective of a hotel (at Pullman Bercy) and that of the travel agent (at Club Med Champs Elysées).
Club Med opened in September 2015 a new concept of agency in an appartment, located on the second floor of a Hausmann building on the very touristic Avenue Champs Elysées. Club Med elevates “literally speaking” its image, welcoming upscale clients in this elegant apartment. The atmosphere is friendly and intimate, far away from traditional travel agencies on the street (see featured picture). Guests “pre-experience” their vacations as soon as they enter in the salon, through activation of all senses, from the discreet smell of monoi oïl to the display of artistic videos on giant screens. Club Med proposes also a 3D immersion into four of their villages.
At Pullman Bercy, Mathide Rullman, Talent Manager, had organized a tour that ended with open discussions with the guest experience manager and the event & communication manager, among others. The Pullman Bercy proposes an hyper-connected and welcoming playground to global travellers, business and family alike (see picture below in the lobby)
Thank you Loïck Menvielle, Director EDHEC BBA Horizon Tourism and EM, and Horizon Digital for organizing this incredible business trip for students.
In Monaco from September 21st to September 23rd, Luxe Pack showcased all new trends in the sector of luxury packaging. Luxe Pack trend observers identified three major trends shaping the sector this year:
Frugality, illustrated by sober packagings in neutral colors, creating a sense of serenity (eg. Carven, L’eau intense)
Compulsive, illustrated by vibrant packagings in bright colours, creating a sense of happyness (eg. Nina Ricci Pop)
Imprint, illustrated by sophisticated packagings that play on contrasts and reliefs, appealing to nostalgia and culture. (eg. Mumm bottle and its red cord embedded in the glass)
Eco-consciousness is still present, as a macro-trend that cross frontiers, generations and sectors. This year, Luxe Pack Monaco awarded Bormioli Luigi Glass Maker for its eco-jars, lighter by 50%, and that cut CO2 emissions by 60% (by comparison to jars of equal capacity). What other initiatives did attract your attention and why? For those who could not attend, you might find interesting examples at http://www.luxepack.com/ or shade light on a green initiative you find relevant.
EDHEC is lucky to be overlooking one of the Nicest bays in the world; and be the neighbour of a piece of French Riviera history: its Belle Epoque palace Le Negresco, proudly French and independant.
For security reasons, it will be difficult to go and visit the Palace this year. Please, go on your own and admire the neoclassical architecture. Le Negresco has been listed as National Historic Building by the French government since 2003. Have a look inside (have a coffee at La Rotonde if possible), admire the artistic pieces, among them Niki de Saint Phalle Nana Jaune (see picture below) besides the monumental Baccarat chandelier and Miles Davis statue at the door of the building. The lobby is full of Jeanne Augier, the charismatic owner of Negresco, family pictures (see picture below).
Source pictures: Marie-Cécile Cervellon
Read the case and watch the Youtube video. Then comment on what makes Negresco authentic? Second, explain how the hotel manages to be responsible and provide a luxury experience at the same time. Is responsible luxury contradictory or complementary in the hospitality sector?
Until September 26th, enter in Van Cleef and Arpels jewel box at Hotel d’Evreux on Place Vendôme. Robert Wilson stages the legendary story of the animals saved from the Flood, inspiration of Noah’s Ark collection, through a multisensorial experience of music and light. The sixty couples of animals are depicted in a way which enhances their preciousness and beauty. It is in line with the tradition of interpretating animal figures that has existed at Van Cleef and Arpels since the creation of the clip Papillon in 1920. The three mythical creatures of the collection employ the Mystery Set (Serti Mystérieux), a technique patented in 1933, which enables stone settings with no visible metals. Admire Pegase clip in coral and diamonds made in this traditional technique.
The Luxe Partenaires Awards ceremony took place on July 12th night in the Aero-Club de France salons. Comité Joséphine received an award for its contribution in protecting the French Savoir-Faire through rare and exceptional perfumes. HIKITAG received the ABC-Luxe award for digital innovation in the luxury sector. Among many luxury brands deserving an award this year, Maison Jaeger-Lecoultre received a special prize for its iconism and ability to reinvent itself.
On the picture below (from left to right), Marie Huet (Parfums d’Orsay, Comité Joséphine), Marie-Cécile Cervellon (Edhec) and the Master of Ceremony Bettina Frohlich (Luxe Partenaires).
If you want to know more about Luxe Partenaires, first Business Network of Professionals in the Luxury Sector:
On June 30th, Edhec was representing France in the International Finals of L’Oreal Brandstorm. This year 15000 students from 57 countries were competing in this prestigious business game. Maurane Vallée, Marie Mazurkiewicz and Jérémy Barouin (Msc Marketing Management) had been selected by L’Oreal to represent France during the French finals organized in April. “The jury commended the strategic outlook of their project and the relevant use of existing social media platforms to recruit Millenials to La Roche-Posay brand ” says their professor of marketing Marie-Cécile Cervellon. We congratulate team Poland which finally won the international finals!
On May 27th, our latest research Cervellon and Mailhos (2016) “The Smell of Words: Stimulating narrative transportation with perfume names” was presented at EMAC (European Marketing Academy Conference) held in Olso (BI Norwegian Business School), Norway. This research deals with synesthesia or the creation of cross-modal, multisensorial stimulation through perfume names. The abstract of the paper: “This paper explores the possibility of creating narrative transportation with perfume names. Current trends in the perfume industry emphasize names suggestive of smell through synesthesia or through narrative structures inviting imagery transportation. This study conducted among French women indicates that creating literal correspondence between a perfume name and its smell is not necessarily the best road to narrative transportation and persuasion. Brand engagement and appeal are higher when consumers are able to project themselves in a rich narrative and imagine living the experience proposed by the brand.”
EDHEC students in Msc Marketing and Apprentissage were invited to LVMH Journées Particulières on May 20th. A privileged journey in the Ateliers Louis Vuitton in Asnières and The House of Dior avenue Montaigne.
Discover the Best Of video posted by LVMH on YouTube:
On April 29th, Edhec Business School won the French finals of L’Oréal Brandstorm, over the major French Business Schools partners to L’Oréal. Maurane Vallée, Marie Mazurkiewicz and Jérémy Barouin (Edhec Msc Marketing 2016), coached by their professor of marketing Marie-Cécile Cervellon, will be representing France in the International Finals on June 30th. They will join teams from 57 other countries with one objective: helping La Roche-Posay attract and recruit millennials to the brand.
L’Oréal Brandstorm is a major International Business Competition organized by L’Oréal since 1992. This year, were competing against Edhec: Hec, Essec, Escp, EM Lyon, Audencia, Neoma, Science Po, Dauphine, Centrale Lyon, Agro ParisTech and the Wild card (Skema).