EDHEC Research on Sustainable Luxury

You will find below the abstracts of all articles I published on sustainable luxury and sustainable beauty which I present during the course on Sustainable Luxury. You will find them all on EDHEC databases. Of particular interest to the discussion on PETA’s actions against DKNY, please read the article Victoria’s Dirty Secrets in Journal of Advertising.

CERVELLON, Marie-Cécile & CAREY, Lindsey, “Sustainable, Hedonic and Efficient: Interaction effects between product properties and consumer reviews on post-experience responses”, European Journal of Marketing (2014), Vol 48, Issue 7/8, pp.1375-1394

Abstract “This paper aims to investigate the influence of consumer reviews on the evaluation, post-experience, of products with a combination of sustainable, hedonic and utilitarian properties. […] Findings show consumers are significantly less influenced by reviews for hedonic products compared to utilitarian products. In particular, they rely on reviews when evaluating utilitarian
ambiguous properties (e.g. anti-aging properties) which they find difficult to judge on their own. Second, consumers are more resistant to the persuasive effect of reviews when the product focus is on sustainable (organic or fair-trade) credentials, in particular when judging ambiguous properties.”

CAREY, Lindsey & CERVELLON, Marie-Cécile “Ethical fashion dimensions: Pictorial and auditory depictions through 3 cultural perspectives”, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (2014), Vol. 18 Issue 4, pp.483-506

Abstract “The purpose of this paper is to provide the results of an exploratory study comparing attitudes of young fashion conscious consumers towards ethical fashion in Canada, France and the UK. […] Results indicated that there were notable differences in the perception of ethical fashion between the respondents from these three cultures. In the representation and appeal of this fashion
segment, in terms of its perceived availability, the transfer of meaning connected with the observation of higher price points and in the use of ethical purchases in the fashion arena as an offset or redemption for unethical behaviour in other contexts.”

CERVELLON, Marie-Cécile & SHAMMAS, Lara, “The value of sustainable luxury in mature markets: A customer-based approach”, Journal of Corporate Citizenship (2013), special issue Sustainable Luxury, 52, pp.90-101

Abstract “This paper presents an exploratory research on the value of sustainable luxury across four ‘mature’ cultures: France, Italy, UK and Canada. In order to unravel the deep meaning of sustainable luxury for consumers, we use a visual elicitation technique, the ZMET technique. Our results indicate that the value of sustainable luxury encompasses three categories, socio-cultural values (conspicuousness, belonging and national identity), ego-centred values (guilt-free pleasures, health and youthfulness, hedonism, durable quality) and eco-centred values (doing good, not doing harm). This framework expands Hennigs et al.’s framework which is focused only on luxury as well as frameworks on the value of sustainable goods and services which emphasise the collective dimension, society’s welfare, and often exclude the individual dimension to such purchases. Several luxury values are enhanced through sustainable luxury (durable quality, conspicuousness); other values originate from the sustainable nature of sustainable luxury, such as eco-centred values and some egocentred
values (guilt-free pleasures and health/youthfulness). Our findings indicate
that these values are present across our four samples, yet, with nuances in meaning and different centrality between cultural groups. Individual drivers to the purchase of sustainable luxury might be central in several cultures (Southern Europe) while collective environmental and social drivers might be determinant in Canada and in the UK.”

CERVELLON Marie-Cécile, “Conspicuous Conservation: Using semiotics to understand sustainable luxury”, International Journal of Market Research (2013), Vol 55(5), pp.695-717


Abstract “This paper investigates the meaning of sustainable luxury among the wealthy, who are the primary target group of luxury brands. In doing so, it highlights the interest of using a combination of semiotics tools (Peirce’s and Greimas’ paradigms) to analyse consumers’ discourses. Indeed, understanding the signvalue of a brand in relation to the natural environment and society is Paramount to the development of CSR activities, in order to avoid, on one side, being perceived as greenwashing and, on the other, losing the brand meaning and authenticity. Findings indicate that the luxury clientele opposes ‘ascribed luxury’ (discreet and emphasising traditional manufacturing techniques) to ‘achieved luxury’ (conspicuous and marketed). The contribution of luxury brands to society welfare should be located on a continuum between sustainability in ethos and along the supply chain, and pure philanthropic actions, both being worthy in consumers’ views, and both being expected from luxury brands to different degrees, depending on the brand ascribed or achieved status.

CERVELLON, Marie-Cécile, “Victoria’s dirty secrets: Effectiveness of Green not-for profit messages targeting brands” Journal of Advertising (2012), Vol. 41(4), pp.137-149

Abstract “Donna Karan Bunny Butcher,” “Bloody Burberry”: Not-ior-profit (NFP) campaigns regularly take brands hostage. These shock tactics are meant to bring publicity to targeted companies’ practices that are deemed socially and
environmentally irresponsible. The aim is to coerce such firms into complying with NFPs’ demands, for fear of consumers’ backlash. Surprisingly, there is scant evidence showing the impact of these messages on consumer behavior. This paper examines consumer response to messages targeting brands in the context of the luxury fashion industry. Two experiments, involving repeated measurement and between-subjects message manipulation (framing and target), were conducted. Results show that eco-involvement and product involvement are moderators of consumer response.”

CERVELLON, Marie-Cécile & WERNERFELT, Sophie “Knowledge sharing among green fashion communities online: Lessons for the sustainable supply chain”, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, special issue on Green fashion (2012), Vol 16, Issue 2, pp. 176-192

Abstract “The purpose of this paper is to investigate the knowledge content on green fashion and the expectations regarding the sustainable supply chain held by consumers and shared within online communities. In sustainable and eco-sectors, the supply chain is of outmost concern for consumers, as most benefits derived from the eco-purchase are linked to the green and ethical credentials of the supply chain. A netnographic approach is used. Discussions on green fashion
were collected in two green fashion forums over two periods (2007-2008 and 2010-2011) and were content analyzed. Results show a switch in knowledge content between the two periods, from a focus on sustainability to a focus on fashion. Also, there is an evolution in the nature of knowledge content,
being initially subjective and becoming more objective and showing expertise during the last period studied. As the communities gain maturity, members are interested in sharing precise knowledge on a variety of aspects linked to the sustainable supply chain, including fabric, materials, manufacturing
processes, transportation, distribution, and recycling or re-use of fashion items. In addition, the role of the members evolves toward educating newcomers and sustaining the development of the green fashion sector.”

CERVELLON, Marie-Cécile & CAREY, Lindsey “Consumers’ perceptions of ‘green’: Why and How consumers use eco-fashion and green beauty products”, Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, special issue on green fashion (2011) Vol 2: 1+2, 77-98

Abstract “The market for green products is expanding worldwide in a variety of industries, such as food, fashion and cosmetics. However, there is little research about consumer behaviour regarding green fashion and beauty, or consumers’ knowledge of green labels and certifications. This article explores these issues through a qualitative research approach, using in-depth interviews and focus groups. Results suggest that consumers do not understand the meaning of all terms and labels used to describe and guarantee green products, such as, for example, eco-labels on organic cosmetics. Regarding the motivation of consumers for consuming eco-fashion and green beauty products, protection of the environment is not a priority. Respondents’ motives for purchasing these products appear to be egocentric and related to health. Also, such purchases constitute a ‘license to sin’: they relieve the guilt of non-environmentally-friendly behaviors. Lastly, motivation for consuming eco-fashion is based on self-expression (mainly a North American motivation) and status display (mainly a continental European motivation). For several continental Europeans, purchasing green products appears to be a new form of conspicuous consumption.”





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