YOOX and Net-a-Porter: The Place to Be?

During this session, we will be discussing the online distribution strategy of Luxury brands. To prepare for discussion, read the case “Is YOOX strategy a little Farfetched?” and the article based on an interview I gave to Trends Tendances April 2017 at

https://trends.levif.be/economie/entreprises/net-a-porter-the-place-to-be-pour-les-marques-de-luxe/article-normal-644781.html

What are the advantages and disadvantages for Luxury brands to be present on these platforms? is there a difference between YOOX and Net-a-Porter? YNAP and Farfetch? Does the YNAP merger makes sense? Should online platforms open brick-and-mortar stores? What is the interest for NAP to develop a media platform?

You might find interesting to watch the following video published by FT on YouTube.

EDHEC roundtable: Impact of terrorism on French tourism

France has been plagued by terrorist attacks over 2015-2016, in Paris and Nice, two of its most attractive touristic cities. Tourism is central to the French economy. It accounts for 7 percent of France’s GDP, with 83 million visitors a year spending about $38.3 billion.  Following November 2015’s attacks, luxury tourism has faced the steeper decline of all sectors. Many affluent travelers canceled their trips, leaving luxury hotels half-empty. A survey by Travel Leaders Group indicates that France competes with nations that have long standing times of peace like New Zealand, Canada and Japan. For first time since 2011, Paris is not among the top 10 destinations chosen by affluent travelers.

Travelers’ behavior has changed; increasingly, they report waiting until last minute to book a hotel or delay their travel plans. According to three speakers at the roundtable, the French service sector is on its way to undertake profound changes. Hotels and restaurants are more responsive and adaptable than in the past. They work on providing compelling experiences, grounded in French culture and patrimony. Security is in the background.  Influencers showing solidarity with Paris and Nice help revitalize the sector. Among the organizations partaking in the solidarity alliance, Galeries Lafayette broadcasts, on social media and in physical stores, a promotional film on Paris, capturing the emotions yielded by the city.

Thank you to the speakers on October 27th : Jérôme Oddo (Groupe Lucien Barrière), Renaud Scalliet (Best Western Opera Liège Hotel) and Clément Duchatelard (Disney).

 

Noah’s Ark and Van Cleef and Arpels art of storytelling

Until September 26th, enter in Van Cleef and Arpels jewel box at Hotel d’Evreux on Place Vendôme. Robert Wilson stages the legendary story of the animals saved from the Flood, inspiration of Noah’s Ark collection, through a multisensorial experience of music and light. The sixty couples of animals are depicted in a way which enhances their preciousness and beauty. It is in line with the tradition of interpretating animal figures that has existed at Van Cleef and Arpels since the creation of the clip Papillon in 1920. The three mythical creatures of the collection employ the Mystery Set (Serti Mystérieux), a technique patented in 1933, which enables stone settings with no visible metals. Admire Pegase clip in coral and diamonds made in this traditional technique.

Experiential luxury is the new Kelly bag

Last April, I was interviewed by Alessandra Stanley from New York Times on Experiential Luxury. Following the interview, a very interesting paper was published on July 5th on custom-made and do-it-yourself blending wines and other highly exclusive experiences. We will be discussing this paper in the first session of the course “Luxury Hotels and Services”. Be ready to explain what makes an experience a “luxury experience”. As a start, read the article in NYTimes (Link below) and view Stephen Bolger (Viniv founder) interview on Les Echos video.

NYtimes July 2016, ”A wine of one’s own: They will drink to that”

videos.lesechos.fr/viniv-la-startup-pour-faire-son-propre-vin

Christie’s on Vintage Handbags as an Investment

On February 23rd, the Compagnie Monégasque de Banque (CMB) proposed to its private banking clients an unusual conference entitled “Why go vintage?”. Matthew Rubbinger, Senior Vice-President at Christie’s, head of the handbags and accessories division, gave a talk on the value of vintage handbags. In four years, the market has tripled to reach 27,780,776 € in 2015 (sales of three major players Christie’s, Heritage and Artcurial).

The vintage handbag market benefits from a post-financial crisis syndrome: since 2008, many luxury clients look for value purchases. They wish to invest in classical models that will be transmitted from generations to generations and will not lose their financial value with time. The rarest pieces by Hermès can go up to 221,912 €, the world record in June 2015 for a fuchsia crocodile diamond Birkin.  Those rare pieces include discontinued models (A So Black Birkin 2010 sold 100,812 € at Christie’s Honk Kong, Dec. 2015), models sought-after because they are produced in very limited quantities (An Himalaya Birkin 35 sold for 157,500 € Christie’s Paris, March 2015) and limited editions (A Kelly Nuage dating back 20 years sold 32,475 € at Artcurial Monaco, July 2013). Several limited editions have multiplied their value by 10, such as the Quelle Idole handbag (aka Kelly Doll). Custom-made pieces can be a good investment for clients in need for uniqueness, when the color selection works…

Pieces which are technically difficult to produce are highly valued (A Picnic Kelly sold 49,500 € at Christie’s Paris, March 2015). Exceptional pieces include Sellier Birkin bags.  Indeed, unlike Kelly bags made in Sellier or Retourné constructions, Birkin’s have been produced historically in Retourné only. In 2015, Hermès announced a Sellier Birkin collection but it was never released. Thus, there are less than ten Sellier Birkin in the world.

Other elements which give value to the bag are based on the rarity of the materials (eg. a suede Kelly or an ostrich Birkin, a popular exotic skin increasingly rare), the color of the bag (eg. Porcelaine color or naturally gradient shades), and of course, its condition (more so than the vintage year). The owner is hardly important, except when her name adds meaning to collectors, such as Margaret Thatcher’s Chanel bag.

Due to the complexity involved in estimating those bags,  the expertise of auction houses such as Christie’s is called for. When buying at an auction, the piece is authentified, graded from brand new condition (grade 1) to fair (grade 6) and estimated along its rarity. It is a guarantee for a safer investment. Yet, do not purchase a handbag just because you bet on its future value. Matthew Rubbinger concluded that the best investments on handbags are based on passion.

If you want to learn more OR bid in the Spring 2016 Paris Fashion Week Handbags auction on March 5th, browse the 172 lots for sale on Christie’s e-catalogue at http://www.christies.com

Volez Voguez Voyagez with Louis Vuitton

During the Holiday Season in Paris, do not miss the Louis Vuitton exhibition in Grand Palais and learn about the French art of traveling. The journey starts in the first room with a trunk inventoried in the 1906 reference catalogue. The elements which have become iconic were already featured: ribbon tufting, canvas and locks. Louis Vuitton’s innovations follow the evolution of travel, the rise of yachting, the invention of automobile, the aviation odyssey, and the improved comfort of trains. In the last room, craftsmen demonstrate Louis Vuitton’s savoir-faire and attention to details. The experience is enhanced if you travel with the exhibition mobile app. If you want to learn what is luxury, a must-go.

Arthur Dietrich (EDHEC 2012) on Harley Davidson

On November 5th, Harley Davidson released a video featuring Arthur Dietrich (Edhec 2012). Discover who is Arthur and why he endorses Harley Davidson.

Who are you Arthur?

My name is Arthur Dietrich, I’m an entrepreneur, pro bmx rider and Edhec alumnus (2012).

Why does Harley Davidson associate its image with BMX and yourself?

Since 2009, Harley has been renewing its product range and rejuvenating its brand image. The objective is to be relevant to a younger adult target in terms of design and prices, while keeping the core values, freedom and adventure. In 2012, Harley was looking for an ambassador who could enhance this new brand image. They were looking for a young adult who would own a Harley and would have visibility in action sports (BMX/skate/ motocross etc…). I have fun riding. I was chosen and I couldn’t be happier.

You are a rider, what makes Harley a luxury brand?

Harley is wild luxury; prices are high, the level of customization is at its finest, the number of bikes is limited which increases the level of scarcity. It is a very exclusive brand, which pays attention to details.

Could you tell us more on your collaboration with Harley?

My aim is to endorse the brand through special projects and events in order to help the brand reach their new target. Harley sponsored my world tour in 2013. Also, I am invited at Harley events in order represent the new adult target and I answer to interviews about the new image of the brand.

Watch the latest video (released on November 5th), also the world tour that I did in 2013 :

SHanghai

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aGOYXC-nfI

Tokyo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JMqCfehWso

Hawai

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcUcM-u0la0

Mexico

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eEtOQRsUfV8

New york

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=if6VL2Iz1qI

Thanks for the interview, you can find more pictures and video on my Instagram @arthurdietrich

 

Kerrie Hess stylish illustrations for Lancôme 80th anniversary

Thanks to Malin Adam, Msc Marketing Student (Erasmus exchange), I keep discovering incredible artists. I share with you Kerrie Hess work for Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Ladurée and lately Lancôme. I love her style, a tribute to feminine and vintage elegance. Vibrant pink, red or turquoise monochrome dressed silhouettes painted on black and white Parisian decors. An Australian interpretation of French glamour. Have a look at:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2926192/From-Chanel-Vogue-Lanc-Meet-Australian-illustrator-fashion-world-elegant-watercolours-inspired-Grace-Kelly-Alfred-Hitchock.html

 

Impact of Chinese Yuan devaluation on European luxury brands

During the week of August 11th, the Yuan was depreciated by 3% to 4% against US dollar.  This might impact Chinese consumption of luxury products in two ways: first, European imported luxury goods might become too expensive for the emerging middle class segment if the prices are not adjusted; second, the budget devoted to luxury goods by Chinese tourists in Europe might be depleted. Chinese clients represent up to 30% of worldwide sales for several European luxury brands.

For further discussion, find out the opinion of experts on this question by reading the following articles:

http://fortune.com/2015/08/11/china-devaluation-luxury-sales/

http://www.lemonde.fr/economie/article/2015/08/28/les-grandes-marques-du-luxe-au-revelateur-de-la-crise-chinoise_4739181_3234.html

LV Shanghai